Installing a Trailer Ceiling

Now that the major part of the heat and humidity is (I hope) nearly behind us, I was finally able to get out to the cargo trailer and get the main ceiling installed.

Due to the insulation being slightly thicker than its nominal value...by roughly an eighth inch...I was debating using the same kind of 3/8ths-inch plywood on the ceiling that was on the walls of the trailer, but the price was more than double the price of 1/4-inch luan, so the latter won out.

But the steel roof bows of the trailer were now shy an eighth of an inch of being flush, so I simply used some scrap paneling and cut strips, which I then secured temporarily with a couple of screws in each one. The ceiling would take care of the rest.

What made this trailer hard to work with is a compound bow of the front and top. For this part, we have to deal with both the bowed front as well as the bowed top, making the scribing of accurate lines a real trick.

What I came up with is a makeshift scribe cut out of the end of a scrap 2 x 2 and a short pencil...short only because it was what I could find that would work.

My makeshift scribe for marking the ceiling.

The idea is to set the pencil half-way into the piece of wood, so that the point is as close to being even with the edge of the wood as possible. To do this, I set the pencil on the table saw up against the blade, and then cranked the blade down to where the top of one of the teeth was at the center of the pencil. Since this pencil was hexagon shaped, that was easy.. When laying on one of it's flat sides, the center is a convenient "point" on one of the sides, so it was just a matter of setting the blade even with the point of the hexagon.

The pencil tip needs to be even with the edge of the board.

The notch was started using the rip fence, and then simply bumping the rip fence over a blade width for each cut. I wasn't worried about the length of the cut, as long as the screwdriver would lay into the notch. If I wanted to get fancy, I could have clamped a stop against the rip fence so that each cut was alike, but in this case, I guessed at it.

The next step was something to hold the pencil into the notch, and as you can see, a plain old rubber band, like the kind the postal carriers use to hold bundles of mail, worked just fine.

So the next thing was to hold the ceiling panel in the exact position (except for length) that it would be in. The sides were the most important, to line up with the pencil marks I had set. At the front, it was simply pushed against the fiberglass top nose of the trailer as far as possible. To hold it up, we (my wife helped lift it to the ceiling) used a couple of handy pieces.

The front ceiling panel held in position with temporary posts.

One was an old closet rod with some extra blocking for height under it and a flat piece on top so it wouldn't scratch the ceiling. The second was a jack bar that we bought at a truck stop to put under the extremely long front end of our truck camper when it was off the truck, just so in case someone climbed into the bunk, the whole thing wouldn't tip over.

We have found this trucker's bar to be extremely handy for many things, so it was a good investment for under $30. It already has heavy rubber pads on both ends. Normally the bar is used horizontally (and maybe vertically, too) to expand between the sides (or floor and top) of a trailer to keep cargo from shifting. It isn't very good for trying to "jack" anything up, as it has very limited travel and power, but for this purpose it was great. I also used it to hold the blocking pieces up when I was installing the ceiling blocking, and it worked like a charm.

When setting the ceiling panel in position it's important not to force it too tight to the ceiling, so you can bump it around and get it lined up properly. Then you can add some extra tension to keep it there.

The next thing is to use the scribe to mark the curvature. To do this, you hold the scribe flat against the front wall, so the pencil is even with the wall, and then gradually drag the scribe from one side to the other while holding it against the ceiling. The pencil should mark the exact curvature of the front wall onto the ceiling panel.

The scribe has to be moved sideways while keeping the pencil against the ceiling.

Once the mark was made, the ceiling panel was taken down, and moved outside the trailer, and then flipped over, so the pencil mark was facing up. I then used a saber saw to cut along the line and make the contour. Normally, you wouldn't want to use a saber saw that pulls up as it cuts on a finish side of a piece of paneling, as it causes it to splinter out. But in this case, there was blocking to be added to the first 1-1/2 inches, so any splinters would be covered.

Exact curvature of trailer front duplicated on ceiling panel.

Now that the curvature was cut, there was another thing to consider. All along the top of the trailer there are wires and many "fold-over" connectors for the inside as well as outside clearance lights. Those connectors have been known to fail. In case anything would ever have to be repaired, those must remain accessible (to a point).

In our trailer, I decided to add a filler piece to the front wall of the trailer. It will attach at the bottom to the front wall, but at the top, we needed some backing to secure it. To solve that problem I used some of the cut off scraps from the ceiling blocking, and cut them down to 8 pieces 6 inches in length. They were already 1-1/2 inches thick and about 1/1/4 inches the other way, plenty to serve as a backing for the future wall panel piece.

I laid them out, keeping the front edge flush with the edge of the paneling, balanced out the length side to side, and then glued each one in place. I used a couple pieces of scrap 2 x 4 on the underside, and then used individual clamps on each piece.

Blocking pieces being glued to the ceiling panel.

After a couple of hours of letting the glue set up during the hottest part of the day, I removed the clamps, flipped the panel over, and then used my Bostitch pneumatic staple gun to secure each piece with about 4 staples... just in case the glue ever dried out or let go.

At the top of the front wall of the trailer I had debated for a long time as to how to insulate around that curved wall and ceiling. Rigid insulation board would be a real pain to fit in that space. I had some leftover pieces of 10-inch encapsulated (wrapped in pastic) fiberglass insulation from when we did the house, so I decided to use that. It was thicker than I needed, but I didn't feel like taking it all apart to separate it into layers. I had one batt that was four feet long by 2 feet wide, so I did cut the width down so it would fit without bunching up too much, but I left the rest as is.

While the panel was down, I measured carefully from the front edge of the scribe (while holding it against the front wall), and got the measurements for the fan opening, as well as the last roof rib I needed to be centered on to secure the rear end of the panel. The fan, being centered, was easy enough to figure the other way. I made the fan opening cut with the saber saw, this time being careful to score just outside my pencil marks with a utility knife, so as not to splinter out the edges.

For the end cut, I transferred the mark to the back side, and then used my circular saw to make the cut, so that any splinters would be pulled toward the back side of the panel. I also used my 6-foot aluminum straight edge clamped to the panel to guide the saw in a perfectly straight line, making a finish cut as good as any factory cut.

The front panel was installed first, and screwed into the steel roof bows using the special screws that were so hard to get (see the previous post). Along the edge, I again used the Bostitch staple gun to secure the edges to the edge blocking as well as to go around the fan opening.

The second piece, to cover the rear half of the ceiling, was much easier, as the back of the trailer is straight across. To keep a tight seam where the two pieces meet, I measured the fan opening from that point, and then cut the opening and the rear cut the same way as was done on the front panel. This one also only needed one temporary post to hold up, as the back edge went over the rear door torsion spring. That part will all be hidden within the rear storage compartment as time goes on so it doesn't have to be real fancy. I did add one center piece of blocking between the last rib and the rear bulkhead, so that was used to staple the rear section of paneling above the torsion spring.

So now, the hard parts that consume a lot of time are all done, and the ceiling is finally in position and secured. 

The new luan ceiling finally done!

The curved ceiling edges on both sides will be fitted with sheet metal panning, and then cabinets will hide most of that, except for three places, (1) above the entry door, (2) inside the closet, and (3) above the head side of the rear bunk. The edge blocking at the sides of the main ceiling will be the anchor points for the fronts of the overhead cabinets, and any sheet metal will be behind and above, and won't be seen unless the cabinet's doors are open, Since everything else in the trailer will be eventually painted white, I plan to use pre-finished aluminum flashing material to form the curvatures and then it will be stapled in place along the edges. Where exposed, a piece of thin lattice will cover the joint.

Nothing more needs to be done with this part. I still have to obtain the correct adhesive caulk to seal the roof around the fans when I install them, but that can be done anytime now. We have to make a run to Batesville to get the commercial tile for the floor, so I will probably get the caulking at that time. The luan for the floor underlayment I can get locally, so that isn't a problem.

At this point we have "maybe" two days of 90+ degree weather yet (hopefully the last we will see this year), and then we have an abnormally cool front coming in, so now is the time to get busy on these outside projects.

Once the floor is down, I should be done with large sheets of plywood. Most of the rest will be much smaller pieces to cover the 1 x 2 cabinet framework, and I figure on doing most of that inside the trailer. Once the fans are in, I just need some temporary lighting and I can work out there all winter. A small electric space heater will be enough to take the chill off later on.

I probably won't even need to use the new air conditioner this year, but I needed it to be able to build the front couch around it, and create the necessary baffles under the couch. That will be the next thing after the tile floor is in. But it will be good to have it operational for next spring after it warms up again!

OK, now that you see how it's all coming together, what do you think? I know everyone has an opinion, so let's hear it. If not an opinion, how about questions? I'll be glad to answer anything on your mind.

Thanks for reading!

  

Material Progress

Behind the scenes, progress is being made, slow as it may be. Material is being gathered for the cargo trailer conversion project, even if nothing has been done with it yet.

Trying to get a breeze going...

The two Fantastic fans and Maxx-Aire covers were ordered on the 22nd and arrived on the 25th, which I considered very good service. They were purchased from AdventureRV.net, which also had given me a good price and good service on the new door latch a couple of months ago.

The Fantastic fans are now awaiting the location and purchase of the correct adhesive sealant caulking before any attempt is made at installing them. Also, the wires have yet to be connected and routed to their position. When everything else is ready I will cut out the openings in the roof and install the fans. Then I will need a 12-volt power source to run them, so a deep cycle battery and a charger will be on my shopping list in the near future.

I have also picked up the two sheets of luan plywood paneling that will be installed on the ceiling, and it will really need to go up before the fans are installed.

Getting screwed...

The delay on the ceiling is because of the proper screws. What was furnished on the trailer sidewalls from the factory, were #8-18x1, type 3 drill point, plated flat wafer head screws. I have searched every source that I can find on the web (after searching locally without success) and the only two places I have found that carry that size and type only has them in cartons of 4000 at a cost of over $800! Yikes!

So as a second best option, I ordered some regular flat head screws in that same size and type (except without the wafer head) from Amazon. The order actually came from some small hardware store that I had never heard of, and when they got here, they were the wrong type of point!

The ones they sent me were standard sheet metal points...not even the extremely sharp "needle point" screws. Trying to force these into 16-gauge stamped steel roof bows would be futile. These are designed for pre-drilled holes!

Not only that, but I have been shipping things online for over 15 years, and we have our own highly accurate postage scale here. I weighed the package of 100 screws at 8.4 ounces. Then I went to the USPS site and calculated First Class postage (which is how they arrived to me) and including $1.05 for tracking, this package shouldn't have cost more than $4.45...but they charged me $7 for shipping!

I could have bought these same screws locally, and saved shipping charges, but no one around here had the exact size of "wafer head" drill point screws I wanted, so I chose these as an alternate choice.

Don't get me wrong, I don't blame Amazon. These screws were provided by one of their vendors. I have never had a problem with Amazon before, and believe me, I have bought a lot of stuff from them over the years. But obviously, this hardware store is not a vendor I would use again. I made a point of sending an email to them to let them know that they didn't send me the screws that were shown on the picture on the Amazon page, plus they ripped me off on shipping. Today is Sunday and they probably won't get it until tomorrow, so we'll see if they respond.

I also went into Amazon and left a "not so favorable" review of the product and vendor. Maybe someone at Amazon will read it and get after them to make it right. Meanwhile, I will keep the screws, as I can find a use for them on some other project where I don't have to try to force them through steel!

So now that I know that the "exact" screws I would like to have cannot be found, I will figure out a reasonable substitution and hope that I can find something that will work locally. I have to have the screws before I can hang the ceiling in the trailer, so that is what has been holding me up. I waited for a week to get the wrong ones, so now I have to waste more time to locate the right ones!

Update - 8/4/14: The hardware store emailed me back first thing this morning and apologized for the wrong item being sent. To make amends, they have already refunded the full amount paid, including shipping, and are sending me a box of the correct screws at their expense, so I am satisfied with the outcome. As far as the shipping, their system charges by the dollar volume, rather than weight, and I can understand how hard it is to program a system based upon that method. We had the same problem when trying to ship lightweight tool organizers combined with large and heavy steel tool boards from our own warehouse. Most payment processors cannot determine correct shipping charges when a store sells a combination of different items. Since they refunded the entire amount, that has also been resolved.

Keeping my cool...

Yesterday, we also ordered the window air conditioner that will go under the front of the couch. It will be delivered to our local Walmart. I could have had it delivered here at home for free, but the way I've seen some delivery drivers handle things, I thought it might be safer at the store. Since my wife works there, she can bring it home when it comes in, which may be as early as the 8th.

This little GE 5050 BTU window air conditioner had very high ratings in the reviews, so that was one good selling point, besides the employee discount we get. The other thing that makes it nearly ideal for our use is that it has a rotating angled diffuser inside the output grid at the top. This is the closest thing that we can find on a small unit like this that will allow the air to be directed upward as well as sideways.

The air conditioner will be mounted closer to the entry door, away from the center of the trailer, as well as at floor level, so it is extremely important that the air be blown toward the center aisle of the trailer as well as upward, for best efficiency. Some small air conditioners cannot do that, so we were very careful in our choice.

Cost also played a small role, but we would have paid whatever it took to get the right unit, and fortunately, this unit was less than $110 final cost, and with no delivery charges. We can buy several of these for what a roof top unit would have cost, plus these are a whole lot easier to get.

Even a portable unit with two hoses would have been upwards of $400, and those are not readily available either. Many of the builder stores carry portable air conditioners, but every one I have seen so far is only a single hose type, and those are very inefficient, because they have to pull warm air into the room from outside, and then constantly cool it down, only to exhaust it out the back. That IS NOT the way a proper air conditioning system works. The cooled down air should stay in the room and the outside air should stay outside!

Summary...

So that's where we stand right now...waiting to get the proper screws and when we get those I will probably get the proper sealant for the fans at the same time. Then I can make some physical progress again soon.

Once the ceiling is up and the fans installed, I have to make a trip to Batesville again to get the commercial floor tile from Home Depot, and a few more sheets of luan to use as underlayment for the tile. Then I can start building the front couch framework around the new air conditioner and cut the rear vents for it down through the floor.

Hopefully, the garage sale proceeds can keep up with the expenditures for the trailer, because we're trying not to spend normal income on it. Our goal is to get Sharon out of Walmart ASAP, and we already know that isn't going to happen until "at least" next July, and then we may need a couple more paychecks after the last bill is paid off to buy some of the last minute stuff before we leave here for good.

As long as the money comes in fast enough to buy stuff as we need it, that will be good enough. Thankfully, we have had some nice cool mornings this year, and we have been trying to only stay open until 2 PM. By then, the heat in the garage is starting to become uncomfortable, and traffic slows down anyway. On some days, Sharon has to go in at 3 or 4 PM, so closing at 2 gives her time to grab some lunch and change clothes before she leaves for work.

As always, if anyone has any comments, please don't be afraid to speak up. I realize our floor plan or even our method of traveling may not be for everyone, but if you are doing anything with building up a trailer or van to travel with...even part time...I hope that what we are doing can give you some ideas on what to do or not to do on your own rig.

As soon as I can locate the exact figures for the electric brakes, tongue replacement and tires for the trailer from years past, I hope to be able to put a spreadsheet together to show what this project is costing us. I can assure you that just getting it to that point was less than $3000, including the trailer. Once I add in the newer expenses of insulation, plywood, fans and covers, and any hardware items and soft goods, it will go up from there, but not that much. Rest assured that the finished product will be far less than any factory built RV with similar features, and will be exactly what serves our purpose...rather than having to settle for what some engineer or designer "thinks" we want, without even knowing us.

And the best part is that everything that goes into it is paid for, including the conversion van to pull it with. When we leave here, we will be debt free, and will hope to stay that way...although I must say that the new Leisure Travel Vans Unity Island Bed or the Serenity is looking mighty fine! We could full-time in either of those, although we would still pull a trailer for extra storage.

Two things are certain...(1) there won't be any new debts incurred on anything until this house is sold and we are out from under the house payments, and (2) what we choose after we leave here and get the house sold will depend on how we like what we have set up. We could afford to buy a nice Type "B+" unit like those mentioned above, although we wouldn't buy a new one. If we went with a smaller unit like that, we could keep the trailer indefinitely for our "overflow". On the other hand, if we would decide we wanted more space and opt for something like the Damon Daybreak model 3272, which would accommodate the piano very nicely, we would have to trade the trailer for a more fuel efficient daily runner. A 32-foot motorhome would simply be too costly and too inconvenient to operate for daily running around.

One thing is for sure, none of what we might want is going to be found here in rural Arkansas. We have to get away from here first in order to get somewhere that might have a more suitable traveling combination for our needs, and that is the whole purpose of starting out with a cargo trailer and semi-economical towing vehicle. How temporary or permanent it may become several months down the road is anyone's guess. Only time, and the actual usage of it, will tell us whether it meets our needs or not.

Thoughts...anyone?

Choosing a Cargo Trailer for Conversion to a Camper

In the process of building up this trailer into a camper, I have noticed several things about it that I would NOT want to see on a new trailer, so I want to give you some pointers on what to watch for. Then I will get back to posting about the build of our trailer. But first let me remind you that I just went back through the previous posts and updated the New Beginnings post with better (and more) information, as well as some minor changes on the other posts, and now I will tell you how we got to this point.

The trailer as it looked in early spring this year.

This trailer was not intended for this purpose to begin with, nor did we buy it for this purpose. It was originally built as a motorcycle trailer, and that's what it was used for by the original owner. It's a 2000 model year Haulmark, with "MC" in the model number. We bought it in 2004. It belonged to the neighbor across the street from us in Mesa, and was a good buy at only $1600.

I had helped a work associate set up a company to import steel tool boards from Sweden, and since I was the first distributor, my intention was to use the trailer as a mobile demonstration unit, and travel around the southwest setting up dealers under me, whom I would then keep stocked with product.

But before that could come about, I could see what was happening with sales of the product, and it never got a good chance to be a success for many reasons, which I won't go into here. Let's just say that I sold more online than the other five distributors combined could sell in face to face sales before the importing company folded. The product was great...just too expensive for the American market. So anyway, the trailer set empty for awhile, until we used it to help move us from Mesa, AZ back to Arkansas. I knew it would be heavily loaded, so before we even made the first trip with it, we had electric brakes installed on it, just to be safe.

We had it packed like a sardine can, making sure to keep the major part of the weight over the axle, but during the first trip back here with it, the cheap tongue bent and dropped the frame to the pavement about 200 miles short of our destination. We had to have a flatbed wrecker come and pick it up and carry it the rest of the way. After emptying the trailer, we had it hauled to a welding shop, where they replaced the old 2-inch stamped steel tongue with 4-inch iron C-channel beams.

Notice how thin the original tongue was.

Notice the new 4-inch iron C-channel tongue, and the latch with the lock through it.

We used it once more, to bring another load back from Arizona, and that time, we blew a tire just north of El Paso. Once we were rescued from the I-10 Interstate, our repair crew led us into El Paso to a tire shop where we immediately had both 4-ply tires replaced with 8-ply tires.

Other than that, we used it for light-duty work in my contracting business, where it was never overloaded (but now could have been, after all the upgrades). So that is how we came to be in possession of this trailer, otherwise I would have been looking for something different for conversion to a camper. And I certainly would hope that Haulmark has improved their construction methods as well as their quality control in the past 14 years!

Here are the negative things that I have noticed about this trailer:

1. In the front left corner, they used too short a piece of plywood on the floor, and it left a gap at the end big enough I could see the ground through it, and which a mouse would have no trouble entering through. Not a big deal, as I have another layer of flooring, plus new tile going over it, and I have already closed the gap with construction adhesive.
2. As I started removing the plywood walls to insulate behind them, I discovered that only the top roof bows had been painted! They left the steel studs in the sidewall without any coating at all, and many of them were showing signs of surface rust!
3. As I was removing the plywood from the walls, I noticed that the screws were poorly installed. Some had missed the metal studs, and they left them there anyway and drove another screw next to them. In many places the spacing was very uneven, and in some places screws were missing completely (I will buy another box of screws and install more where it needs them).
4. There was never a ceiling in this trailer (only the metal roof), so I have to install that brand new.
5. The cheap 1/8th-inch plywood strips that they used for batten strips over the plywood joints were stapled on with the smallest staples I have ever seen...about the size of a 20-gauge AWG wire size (about like you'd see in an office stapler designed for paper) and only 3/8ths of an inch long, so they didn't even penetrate all the way through the plywood behind the trim! They used the same size staples to try to attach the cove molding at the base of the walls, and half of that was coming loose! Some staples didn't even show a 16th of an inch on the back side!
6. The trailer had no brakes on it when I bought it, and I paid a professional hitch shop about $800 to have electric brakes installed and the old four conductor flat plug wiring harness and plug updated to seven pin round. Fortunately, the axle already had the correct backer plates behind the wheels or that would not have been possible without changing out the whole axle.
7. The original trailer tongue was a very thin, 2-inch stamped steel tongue, which was barely enough to meet the load the trailer was designed for...but no more. It may have been OK for the "pulling" weight of the trailer, but definitely not for the straight down "carrying" weight of anything but a properly loaded motorcycle, for which the hoop for the front wheel was still installed on the floor.
8. Although the trailer has a deck plate rock guard shield on the front, it is very poorly installed. The front radius of the deck plate is inconsistent, and there are gaps between the deck plate and the aluminum siding that even metal screws couldn't pull together. One that was installed has stripped the threads on the screw, and now I must find an even larger screw to try to fix the problem. The two outer studs in the front wall are back too far and not consistent with the radius of the front wall. You can see what I mean in one of the photos of the front end below. This is why the stone guard would not draw up properly to the siding.
9. The side door "keeper"...the little latch that is supposed to hold the door open so the wind doesn't blow it shut...was made out of plastic. It was badly sun-damaged and dried out, and has since broken off. I crimped a piece of lamp tubing over the shaft as a temporary repair, but now I must find a metal one to replace it.
   
   

   

   The door keeper shaft has been repaired for now, but needs to be replaced.

   
   
10. During the measuring for the insulation board to fit between the steel wall studs, I saw many inconsistencies...as much as half-an inch from top to bottom. You would think that a company this big would have a jig to hold these studs at a consistent spacing, so that the studs, as well the entire trailer, would remain consistently square and true. I also noticed a difference of MORE than a half-inch when measuring the interior width. The measurements at the top were not consistent with the bottom, nor were they consistent front to back.
11. They can say what they want to about curved sides and front being better for wind resistance, but I can tell you that it's not enough to offset the added costs and aggravation of trying to fit things to curved walls and ceilings! For one thing, I am going to be pulling this with a high-top van that is already taller and wider than this trailer, so I doubt the curved front is going to make a hill of beans difference in fuel economy! And as far as the sides, that little bit of curvature at the top of the walls isn't going to make a hill of beans difference when it comes to side winds. Other trailers with straight sides and straight fronts have been pulled down the road for years. Only the really curved ones, like the Airstreams, have been proven to handle better in side winds or get better fuel economy because of the rounded shape.

So now that I have seen all the faults of this trailer (hopefully), let me point out what I will be looking for "IF" (and that's a BIG "IF") we ever buy another cargo trailer to convert to a camper. That alone is questionable, since we are looking at this current trailer as a temporary fix to get us away from here to other areas where they have a better selection of RV's. Also, I am not getting any younger, and I don't want any more major projects. I want to be out traveling...not building another thing to travel in!

Fifteen things to look for in a cargo trailer to convert to a camper:

1. I would be looking for a cargo trailer with straight sides, square corners, a flat roof and a V-front. Although the curvature of a Haulmark does little for fuel economy and handling, a V-front definitely cuts through the wind better, as well as providing additional interior space. You can't buy stock cabinets at a builder store and expect them to fit a curved wall...in either direction! But with straight sides, you can walk into any builder store and buy stock cabinets, including wall cabinets, just like you would for your kitchen or bathroom at home...and that can save you a ton of time and expense by getting away from all that custom cutting to make things fit!
2. I would be looking for a trailer that is well built, from the materials it's made from to the quality control of the workmanship that goes into it. I would be inspecting the size and material that the tongue is made from, to make sure it can handle weight put in the front of the trailer, not just over the wheels.
3. I would be looking at the interior finish to see if fasteners are consistent and of proper size for the job. No loose screws that didn't hit anything, and no staples that are too small to hold what they are put into! Also, is the trim cut properly and mitered for the proper angles?
4. I would be looking for a trailer that was already insulated, which would save a lot of time in having to do a job (installing paneling) three times...once to install it, once to remove it to insulate behind it, and again to re-install it. Remember, you are paying for all that labor time...one way or the other! Better to have it done by the factory, where they can do it a whole lot more efficiently than you can, and do it the FIRST time!
5. I would be looking for a trailer with at least a place for roof vents, already framed in. A cheap roof vent can easily be upgraded to a Fantastic fan, if the hole is at least framed for it. They're all 14-inches square. But if you have to frame for the fan as well as install it, and provide wiring for it, you are looking at more expense and more work!
6. I would be looking for a Bargman type latch with deadbolt on the side door, or at least have one installed by the dealer. Ours only had a cam bar latch, and I had to spend over $30 for a new latch and then install it myself! A cam bar latch is great for security, and works fine for the rear doors or a ramp door, but now we have both on our trailer. And if you also have a cam bar latch like ours, make sure you have an extra hasp on the other side of the doorway to lock that bar back, so no one can come along and lock you inside!
   
   
   
   
   
7. I would be looking for a deck plate stone guard on the front of the trailer...one that hugs the siding and fits properly. Anyone who has ever pulled a trailer knows how much junk gets thrown back there by the rear wheels of the towing vehicle, even on paved roads. A stone guard will keep the front of the trailer looking new for a long time, and will be a good selling point for the next buyer, so it is well worth the extra expense.
8. I would be looking at the rest of the siding, to make sure it is straight and not buckled anywhere, and I would be paying attention to seams and how they are put together.
   
   

   

   Note the stone guard, but also notice the wavy siding on the front of the trailer!
   

   
   

9. I would be making sure that the trailer was built with a metal cage, and not just wood as many travel trailers are. I don't even know if any cargo trailers are made with wood, but if they are, I wouldn't want one!
10. I would be looking for not only good tire tread, I would be looking for the age of the tires, as well as the load rating and the number of plies. Having already dealt with a number of flats on trailers, I can tell you it is no fun. And many trailer tires are actually cheap, under-rated tires that are not fit for use on a passenger vehicle! In fact, they are ILLEGAL to use on a passenger vehicle! That alone should tell you something! If they aren't good enough to keep people safe, why would I want them on a trailer of any kind? Just because people don't ride in trailers doesn't mean they aren't due just as much respect as a passenger carrying vehicle! I want GOOD tires on a trailer, preferably over-rated for the weight of the trailer! I don't want to have to figure out where the nearest road service is when I may be out wandering and not know where I am myself! And even though I know more about changing tires than the average person, I am getting to the age where I don't want to have to mess with changing it myself, especially on the side of a busy freeway!
11. I would be looking for a good anti-theft locking mechanism on the trailer hitch itself. Cargo trailers are a highly resellable item to thieves, as many of them all look alike, and are hard to tell if they are stolen. Ours has a latch that comes down whether it is on or off the ball, and we can put a padlock through it. (Shown on one of the pictures above.) I also have a device that fits into the ball socket itself, and locks in place with a key. In addition, you can also wrap your safety chains around the locking mechanism and put an additional padlock through the links. Since trailers always should have wheel chocks handy to keep them from rolling, you can get the kind that are hollow, and run a chain through the wheel chocks and through the spokes of the wheel, and if possible, over a part of the frame or suspension. That way, a desperate thief can't even hook onto the tongue with a chain and drag the trailer away, because the wheels won't roll! 
12. I would make sure that the trailer has a clear and proper title to it. ALL trailers have titles...even those cheap little Harbor Freight trailers, and even home-built trailers have to be titled if they are used on public roads! I have seen cases where in some states it is not a requirement to "register" them and put plates on them, so some people think they don't even have to have them titled in their names...but they DO! The guy I bought our trailer from lived in Wisconsin, and he never had the trailer titled in his name! He tried to give me a manufacturer's original title, which is illegal to pass on to someone else unless you are a licensed dealer...which he wasn't! He tried to argue that in Wisconsin he didn't have to "register" it! That may be true that it doesn't need plates in that state, but titling and registration are two separate processes! Since he sold that trailer to someone who wasn't going to use it in Wisconsin, and whose own state required plates, he is legally obligated to furnish a title that was first titled in HIS name! ANY vehicle that has a title HAS to be titled in the legal owner's name before they can pass that title to someone else! He argued that with me to the end, and because I was already four states away when I discovered it, he had me over a barrel! I already had put over $800 into electric brakes on it, plus the tongue replacement, plus I was nowhere near him, or I would have dumped it back in his lap in a heartbeat! Instead, I was forced to pay the $35 for his title work AND his late fees, which I shouldn't have had to pay, and I couldn't do anything about it! And I never spoke to the ignorant, tightwad, rotten S-O-B again, either, even though we lived across the street from him until we moved out of the place completely! And by the way, when they first moved in, I even GAVE him an extra aluminum stepladder! You'd think the least he could do is pay for his own title work! I have little tolerance for people like that...as you can tell!
13. I would want an electric jack on the tongue of the trailer with a disconnect switch mounted inside the trailer somewhere. Thieves can't steal the trailer if they can't retract the jack post! Some people may be satisfied with a crank-down jack...if they don't have a bad back. The one on our trailer is an "add-on" type that clamps to one side of the tongue. It has a pivot on it that allows it to to swivel up parallel to the tongue, so there's nothing hanging down to catch on anything. (shown in one of the photos above.) I really like that feature, but if you have one that is mounted through the hole in the top of the hitch, like most of the power jacks are, you may end up with too much hanging down...especially if your trailer sets low to begin with, like most cargo trailers. If you use a jack of that type, you may have to cut some off the bottom of it, or take a chance that it will catch on something when going down the road...or over a railroad track, or over a curb, or over a speed bump, or...well...you get the idea. A jack of any type should never hang down lower than the bottom of your hitch. You can always add a few blocks under it if you have to...but you will have one heck of a time trying to straighten out a bent 1-1/2-inch shaft on a hundred dollar jack post if you catch it on something!
14. I would want stabilizer jacks on both rear corners of the trailer. A single stabilizer in the middle is worthless. With two, you can adjust them to the levelness of the ground, and when you power down your front jack, you can use that three point method for leveling the trailer side to side as well as front to back. Our trailer has "flip down" stabilizers, which are not true "jacks", as they won't raise the trailer...only hold it at the height you set them at. Also, in order to flip them back into position, you usually have to let the front of the trailer down, and then raise it back up again after the stabilizers are in position. They will get the job done for now, but will likely get replaced with scissors style jacks welded in their place, as soon as we can get somewhere to have it done.
    
    

    

    Stabilizers are not true "jacks" as they won't raise anything on their own.

    
    
15. The choice of a ramp door as opposed to dual barn doors at the back is one of preference, but I'll tell you my reasoning for wanting a ramp door. For one, it's easier to move heavy items (like my wife's piano, cycles or an ATV) in and out on a ramp than having to lift them. Secondly, if you put jack stands under the end of the door, it makes a great raised deck or patio so you don't have to get out in the grass and stir up all those mosquitoes. Thirdly, and this is already an option on some higher end toy haulers and cargo trailers, is that you can get a canvas screen cover made for it so that you can use it as a screen room. Doors are worthless except to hang things on. I feel that a ramp is far more versatile.
    
    

    

    A ramp door is far more functional for us than typical "barn" doors.

    So that's the main things to look for if you are planning to buy a cargo trailer to convert to a camper, whether it be new or used. These items apply to any size trailer, and the size is a matter of personal needs. All I can recommend there is to not go any bigger than you absolutely need to. Plan out your space on a scale drawing. I have been working on our plan for nearly a year, and still think of minor changes now and then. If you want to see what we have done, go to the New Beginnings post, and look about half way down the page, in the updates, for a link to an OpenOffice file download for it. If we can fit everything we want for full-timing into a 6 x 12 trailer, including a future washer/dryer and even a dishwasher, there is no reason you can't do it! If I can think of anything else, I will update this accordingly.

As always, if you have any questions, I'm here every day.

Blocking and Insulation

Since I only have a part of the blocking done right now, this post will be updated as more progress is made, so keep checking back every week or so until this part of the project is done and the walls and ceiling have been closed up with paneling.

We live in an area where choice of materials is limited, so we had to make a special trip to Mountain Home (about 50 miles west) to pick up the insulation board. Home Depot and Lowes are side by side there, but neither of them had what I would have preferred, Polyisocyanurate board, which has the best R factor. As always, we had to make do with what was available.

To complicate matters, our Haulmark cargo trailer (actually designed as a motorcycle trailer) was built with 1-1/4 inch steel ribs, rather than a more standard 1-1/2 inch. We could have bought insulation board in 1-1/2 inch thickness, but nothing is ever that easy. To get the thickness we needed I had to go with whatever they had in stock, and get a combination of 3/4-inch sheets and 1/2-inch sheets. We looked at the pink stuff first, but Home Depot only had one of the sizes we needed. So we went next door to Lowes and found that the blue sheets were a buck cheaper, and they had both sizes, so that's what we went with.

As I said in the previous post, some people may say I should have picked something different, but in this area, we have to go with what we can get. And insulation value is of minor concern, because we plan to travel with the good weather, south in the winter and north in the summer...or at least change elevations, which is easier to do in more mountainous terrain. Our need for insulation was as much for sound as anything else. If you have ever been inside a trailer during a heavy rain storm, or worse yet, hail...you understand.

Our trailer's straight sides are only 68 inches tall. Because the roof bows curve up after that, we have a good six feet of standing room, even near the sides, and that's plenty tall enough for us.

Our conversion van has all the seats in it, and the middle row won't fold down. We laid the electric couch/bed flat, and that provided six feet of length (up to the back of the middle row of seats) to lay anything flat in the van, so it worked out well. We needed nine sheets of both thicknesses of insulation, so I took my drywall T-square and a utility knife with us, and we cut all eighteen sheets to a six foot length. The nine 2-foot pieces were also laid flat in three layers on top of the larger sheets.

As you can see, I have an abundance of plywood pieces (with more lumber and trim on our rear deck), left over from my remodeling days in the four years before I retired. If you want to see some of my past projects, they are at http://hardyhandyman.blogspot.com, and that is yet another blog that I need to add more projects to.

What you see in the photo above will be used to cover cabinet frames and other things. Because we look at this project as temporary, we don't want to get too fancy, but still make it look nice. I'm not going to try to buy new matching paneling and build a lot of fancy hardwood cabinets. This trailer is going to get primed and painted a light color on the inside (maybe white). By doing so, I can use up all this scrap plywood without worrying about what matches. It will all look the same by the time I am done, and it will also be easy to fix in case of dents and dings. It's just more practical in all regards. Besides, the light interior (rather than wood paneling) will be much brighter and seem larger.

I had to straighten up this stack of paneling leaned against the right side of the trailer, and had just enough room to stack the insulation board against it. Now you see why I am doing one section at a time. There's not much floor space left until this stuff gets installed!

So now comes the blocking. I started in the front, on the ceiling. We will have two Fantastic fans, one at the front and one at the rear, so I framed the front one first, making sure to leave enough room around it for the trim. The ceiling light shown will eventually get replaced with an LED fixture, and it can be moved slightly when that time comes, but still, I wanted to leave enough room. Also, you can see the fiberglass front cap of the trailer, which is curved. I wanted to stay away from the rib on the roof where the metal roof joins to it.

The framing is slightly less than standard 2 x 2 size because of the 1-1/4-inch rib depth. Every piece of blocking has to be cut down to that depth in order to fit in the space. The steel ribs have to be drilled with a pilot hole before the screws can be installed. I'm using coated 2-1/2-inch deck screws which I pull off a strip of plastic, which was used with my Senco deck screw gun. You can buy similar screws in boxes.

Where the wood joints meet, I use wood glue to make sure they don't move, although I cut everything tight enough that they will stay in place even before the screws are installed.

This former motorcycle trailer had no plywood ceiling in it, and what blocking you see on the far right in the photo above was only "one by" boards, installed to give them something to strengthen the ceiling where they rounded the sheet metal roof. But they aren't thick enough to be flush with the inside of the rib, so they are worthless as far as inside attachments.

The front wall of the trailer was actually two pieces of plywood, with a joint down the middle. I could have done that on the ceiling, but a 4-foot width down the center works out just as well. The upper cabinets will cover the edge of the plywood in most places (except above the entry door and the head of the rear bunk). So I carefully measured to the center, and then 2-feet to either side, and snapped a chalk line where the edge of the plywood would be. After cutting the 2 x 4 pieces down to the size I needed (2-1/2" wide by 1-1/4" thick) and doing a little notching to clear existing roof screws and the curvature in the corners of the ribs, I made a mark 3/4-inch in from the edge, and placed that to align with the chalk line on the ribs. It takes a lot of trial and error cutting and fitting to get everything just right, but is worth it in the end, and there isn't really that many to do.

This is an ideal location, because the upper side cabinets will also be screwed into this blocking, and to the side walls, and the edge of the plywood will be covered by those cabinets, giving the ceiling a "one piece" appearance (except for the one end joint somewhere in the middle, since the trailer is 12 feet long). The curvature of the ceiling and front corners of the trailer will be covered with bent sheet metal, such as aluminum flashing material.

Because some of these "2 by" blocking pieces have to be toe-nailed at an angle, I have been using a special 1/8" by 6" long metal bit, that I eventually broke. Home Depot didn't have any, but I found them at Lowes, and bought three...which I proceeded to break the same afternoon that I brought them home! 

Darn!

No one around here has them, so I had to order some online, which I am waiting to arrive so I can go back to work on the blocking. Trying to drill at an angle into metal is quite tricky, even when going through a pilot guide hole in the wood. 

And you never want to drill at an angle toward the outer skin of of the trailer, or you take the chance of drilling through it! ALWAYS drill your pilot holes so that no matter how deep your screw goes, it won't go through the trailer skin!

Some holes can be drilled straight through, if you have room to get your drill and bit behind it, but still, use a center punch to keep your bit from wandering.

As of yesterday, all of the walls in the trailer have been insulated and the plywood re-installed. I removed the wall switch totally and those wires will be spliced together to make the light circuit hot all the time. The dome lights already have switches on them, and besides, I need to tap into those wires to provide power to the two Fantastic fans, which also have their own switches on them.

The only things that need to be insulated yet are the edges of the curved roof down both sides of the trailer, and the front cap area. The sides will be easy. I just need to score the back side of the insulation so it can be bent around the curve of the roof edge. The front cap will be the tricky part. It is curved with the roof, as well as around the front of the trailer, so nothing is straight on it. I can't just fill it with foam because there is wiring up there that has to remain accessible.

The plywood ceiling will have to be installed first, and even the front section of that must be cut in a curve and then bowed to the ceiling curvature. Before I install it, I will have to use spray adhesive to attach foam board to it in front of the last roof bow, as that is the only way to get the rigid board in there or to hold it in place. The same will have to be done with a removable filler panel that will attach to the front wall between the top plate of the wall and the ceiling, so as to make the wiring accessible. Also, that panel will have to have some backing behind the top of it to fasten it in place, so the ceiling will have to extend beyond the vertical plane of the wall so that I can glue and screw some 2 x 2 blocking to it in short sections. That's the only way to get around the double curvature. The wall panel will then screw into the blocking. All that is complex enough without trying to fit insulation behind it, too, but it has to be done that way.

In the process of everything that has been done so far, I have seen many things about this trailer that I would not want to see if I were buying a new one. But rather than get into naming all of the issues I have seen, I think it is more prudent to write a new post pointing out the things to watch for when buying a new (or used) trailer for the purpose of converting it to a camper. 

As I said, this post will be updated with more pictures and text as I can get the last of the blocking and insulation work done, but even if you forget to return here, I think you get the idea of what I am doing with the blocking. 

After that will come some wiring for the fans, and the ceiling will be ready for the new luan plywood sheets to cover it up. On the sidewalls, I re-used the existing 3/8ths plywood. It's going to get primed and painted anyway, so it saves money. But it had to be removed first, to block and insulate, and then put back on. After the ceiling and front wall are done, then I will start on the floor. It will get new luan underlayment plywood, and then we'll install new 1/8th inch thick commercial tile over it. That is solid vinyl tile in which the color goes all the way through it, and it is practically indestructible. After that. we'll start building the interior components.

So stick around. Make sure you click one of the links in the sidebar to follow on social media, RSS, or plain old email notifications, depending on which you prefer. Or, you can choose all three, to make sure you don't miss anything. I like choices, and yet I see so many bloggers fail to provide those choices. If you expect followers, you need all three types of subscriptions on your sites, People! 

So now that you see what I am doing, and why, what are your thoughts? C'mon...speak up! 

Let There be Light! And Power!

Before we discuss getting power into our trailer, be sure to go back and read the previous post, regarding the new door latch, if you have not done so already, as it has been updated with more pictures and details about that installation.

The access fitting that I am using here is probably twenty years old, but it has been safely stored out of heat and sunlight, so it still looks and works like brand new. It was originally bought to go down through the floor of a full-sized van that we were going to convert, but never got that far with it. Here is a brand new one just like it on Amazon.

In this case, we are installing the fitting in the left rear corner of the trailer, within the 20-inch deep storage area that will be behind a bulkhead. The bicycles will go back here, along with the power cords, hoses and any other "utility" type things that we have room for.

For those unfamiliar with RV standards, it is pretty much normal for all RV's to have their utility hookups on the left side, usually from the middle toward the rear. For many years, there was no standard, and some of the old campgrounds that haven't been updated in the last fifty years may have their electric, water and sewer connections almost anywhere. You should always have at least 50 feet of every utility hookup you use, just in case you run into one of those parks. But most places have now gotten on the same page, and place utilities where the RV's have also decided to put them...on the left side. The only exceptions would be parks that are in extremely rocky ground, or near lakes, in which case they put the utilities where it is easier to dig. And on RV's, the decision as to middle or rear of that left side is often decided by the floor plan.

For our use, we wanted the opening as near to the left side and rear corner as we could get it. Before cutting any holes, we had to reach underneath the trailer and find out where the framing members were, so we didn't accidentally cut into one of them. The electric cord(s) will hang on the wall of the trailer, and will attach to a multi-outlet, surge protected and breaker protected power strip, like any computer would use. We can easily reach around the corner of the trailer and feed the cord down through the access opening once we get parked where there is power available.

The electrical access door installed through the trailer floor.

When the fitting is closed, it seals out weather and bugs. We could even stuff some insulation into the cup if we needed to.

The electrical access door closed for transit.

When the cord is run through it (we will be using a #12, 3-wire cord on our rig, which is the size shown), the lid seals around the cord. If it leaves a slight gap, we can wrap some thin foam around the cord, and then close the lid, to make sure ants or anything else can't get though it.

The electrical access opening with the cord run through it.

That's pretty much all there is to that. Our power requirements for this trailer will be small. We will have a small 34-inch high refrigerator mounted on top of the countertop at eye level (we hate having to bend over to see what's in a refrigerator at floor level), a microwave (which won't be used if we're out boondocking without power), the Fantastic fans, and lights and chargers. That's about it. We may add a portable air conditioning unit if we see a need for it, but we plan on traveling with the weather.

However, we have to keep our puppy (he's seven years old now) cool if we have to leave him in the trailer for awhile, otherwise he goes where we go.

And later on, if we find that carrying a piano around with us isn't practical, we may use that space for a Spendide washer and dryer combo unit. We've had two of them before, and love them! Who knows...we may even add an apartment sized dishwasher next to it. Maybe. And still have enough room left to add another pantry to carry more food. If we don't do that, we may put a table and chairs in that space. How many rigs under 30-feet have you seen that have a washer/dryer AND a dishwasher, let alone a spinet piano? Not many, I'll bet!

As far as power for the refrigerator, we plan to eventually add enough solar to the roof, and batteries, to provide constant power for the refrigerator. We have a 1500-watt inverter to convert the 12 volts from the batteries to 120 volts for any other power we need. When we plug into a land line, a relay will switch everything over to that source automatically, although that may come later. The other appliances (other than our chargers) we can simply "not use" if we're out boondocking. We have choices. Choices are good. I like choices.

The next post will be about the blocking within the walls and ceiling, which is currently under way, but not yet done. It will be installed at all edges of paneling, around openings (like the Fantastic fans), and anywhere that anything will be attached to or hung from the walls or ceiling, for extra holding power. And we have picked up the insulation that we needed, so as soon as we can get the blocking installed in one section, the insulation will follow. Since we only have so much room in the trailer, it is easier to do one wall or the ceiling at a time, before we start another section.

I know some of you are going to say I should have used a different type of insulation, but as I said many times, we don't intend camping anywhere where it's below 30 degrees, nor above 100 (and preferable not that high). The insulation is more for sound than anything else, and if it helps keep it warmer or cooler, that's a bonus. It doesn't take that much heat or cooling for 72 square feet of space!

We will have a catalytic heater for boondocking (which uses no electricity), and a small electric heater for when we have power, and that will be the only other thing that may use electricity. Half wattage of 750 watts will be more than enough to keep us comfortable, and that still leaves plenty to run the refrigerator and even our 700 watt microwave. If we run into a problem, we'll simply shut the electric heater off, otherwise we can run the refrigerator (200 watts maximum) and microwave at the same time, and still have enough left for lights and chargers. Problem solved.

So hang in there. I have to stop and fix some dinner, and then I'll try to start on the next post tonight yet, so I can feel like I'm caught up!

As always, let me know if you have any questions. I'm here every day!

New Beginnings

Today being the first official working day of the new year of 2014, this is the perfect time to set up the blog for our new adventures...namely, preparing to head out around the first of June, 2015 to travel full-time in a converted (and somewhat "stealth") cargo trailer, pulled by an equally stealth conversion van.

OK, so why a cargo trailer? Many reasons...

1. The main reason is because we wanted a sort of toy hauler, mostly for my wife's spinet piano. None of the ready made rigs we have seen so far will suit our needs as well as we would like them to, and since I was a builder (of many things) it was easier to start with an "empty box" and build it the way we want it. We have a portable keyboard, but the piano has sentimental value as a family heirloom. If it doesn't work out to keep it in tune, at least we can say we tried. 
2. The trailer/van combination was the best compromise on fuel economy and space. We have owned everything from a pop-up trailer to a 40-foot motorhome in the past, and we knew we didn't want another gas guzzling monstrosity, yet we still needed sufficient space for two people and our planned lifestyle, which may include out of town visitors now and then.
3. Although the trailer itself, and even our towing rig may change after we get on the road for awhile, having two separate units suits our needs better. The trailer will be our main "overnighting" quarters, but we can also leave it parked if necessary, and head out on short trips with just the conversion van, which will have everything we need for shorter overnight stays. Also, the conversion van can serve as a "second bedroom" for ourselves or visiting guests, as it will have most of the same amenities as our main living quarters, and yet be fuel efficient "enough" to serve as a daily driver for our sightseeing.
4. A cargo trailer is extremely flexible in design. Ours has a ramp door, and will be extremely handy for loading and unloading anything in the rear storage area. Our original plan called for a removable bulkhead which would leave a 20-inch deep cargo area in the back for bikes and other things, while still keeping the living area separate. However, the actual build will require a 24-inch deep cargo area and a fixed bulkhead wall. The piano will have to be loaded through the side door, and it likely will not be removed unless we plan to get rid of it. But if and when that time comes, the former piano space could be converted to a 12-inch wide tall pantry/closet with a Splendide washer/dryer combo unit in front of that and then a 18-inch wide dishwasher between that and the side door, with a countertop over the appliances...or...simply a small table and a couple of chairs. On the other side we have a 48-inch counter, a 34-inch tall refrigerator, a bar sink, a convection microwave, a propane stove, a catalytic heater, 46-inches of closet space, a porta-potty, a portable shower, and even a dedicated place for Sharon's accordion, my guitar and a 24-inch deep legal-size file drawer. On top of that, we will have 8 gallons of fresh water, 15 gallons gray water storage, and maybe a small electric water heater. How many 6 x 12 trailers of ANY kind have you ever seen with that many amenties for full-time traveling? Besides, the trailer is designed with the weight evenly balanced from side to side and just in front of the wheels. If the 360# piano goes, something of similar weight must replace it. Don't worry, it's all very well thought out.
5. A smaller cargo trailer (up to 7 x 14) isn't usually going to draw any complaints in areas where camping isn't allowed, because it doesn't look like a camper...unless you make it look like one by adding windows, hookups and other access covers to the outside. Some people feel "closed in" unless they have windows, but a skylight works just as well, and is practically undetectable from ground level if done right. For side viewing, there is anything from door "peep holes" to electronic viewers and even full blown security cameras that you can add to the outside without drawing attention, and still see what is going on around you. In fact, I already have the cameras for both the back of the trailer as well as the back of the van. When not being used as a monitor inside the trailer, that camera will be piped up to the van so I can see what's behind me at all times. Most people will just think the trailer is a contractors work trailer, and not give it a second thought. This opens up the possibility of many more "free" overnight parking spots (as though we don't have enough already)!
6. Without windows, it gives you much more security, by preventing break-ins. Ours still has the cam-bar lock for when we're away, in addition to the normal RV door latch for when we're occupying the trailer. The lack of windows also gives you more flexibility on how you use the inside. You have more usable wall space for hanging things to make it feel more like home, and aren't limited on where you place permanent fixtures like cabinets. LED lighting provides plenty of low current lighting for night time without worry of draining the "house" batteries (yes, we will have more than one. I'm planning for at least two, maybe three deep cycle AGM style batteries of up to 225 amp/hours each...and eventually solar charging for extended boondocking time).
7. Because a cargo trailer is much lower to the ground, no steps are needed to get in and out, something us "old folks" with leg issues can appreciate. And in turn, the roof is also low enough in height that the whole trailer is garagable with an 8-foot door height, and there are definitely no problems with low bridges! Because it is lower than the van, it has less wind resistance when going down the road, and the 6-foot width also lets you see around it with standard mirrors on the van! And there's no question of far greater maneuverability, even in tight city streets (which we plan to avoid like the plague). By staying under 4,000 pounds, we also save money by not needing a weight compensating hitch or sway bars. Those alone can cost over $1000! These are all great advantages over most travel trailers!
8. Even if we knew exactly what we would want in a more livable unit (a Damon Daybreak model 3272 Class A seems to have the best floor plan for our needs without getting "too" big), they are never around here, in rural Arkansas. And to waste plane fares trying to fly out to look at various ones where they "might" be, and then get back here and rush loading up after the house sells, is ludicrous. We can't buy the motorhome "until" the house sells, and maybe not for a few months after the fact, so why would we want to go through that kind of hassle? It would mean having to move out to a rental, and then move again into a motorhome if we found one, and even then, we would still have housing payments! Our trailer and conversion van are both paid for. When we leave here, we can start out debt free, and not have to worry about whether the house has sold or not. That fact isn't going to be a deciding factor for us! If it takes a year to sell, we don't plan on waiting around! The realtor can mail the paperwork to us! After we get somewhere that we can find a good selection of RV's (like the ten mile stretch between Mesa and Apache Junction on Main Street where dealers are practically next door to each other) and have a little time to regroup, we can make a trade at our leisure, and on OUR terms!
9. For those who would say that they could never live in a cargo trailer, even for a few weeks, you should ask yourself...who cares? Is it just you, or are you worried about what other people think? And if so, you have to ask yourself...are they adding anything of value to my life if they are going to criticize where or how I live? Are they putting money in my pocket to add to my traveling and ability to go out and see the world? Are they friends with me because of me, or because of the kind of house I live in? If they aren't contributing to the enjoyment of living my own life on my own terms, then why should I worry about them? They aren't going to be traveling with me. They aren't adding value to my life that I can spend. They aren't adding security to my life. If they are going to criticize what I want to do with my life (saving money while seeing the rest of this great country, as well as being eco-conservative in using it's resources) then why I do I need their negativity to drag me down to their level? I will be out having fun and seeing the country, while saving money (over $1100 per month in our case, as opposed to trying to maintain real estate) and being a conservationist to earth's resources, while they are still stuck in their jobs, tied to houses that are way bigger than they need to sustain their lives, and buying more useless junk to fill those houses, only so they can continue to work to make more money to pay for all that useless junk, just so they can look "respectable" and impress others in how much stuff they try to prove that they can afford to own! Think about it. Are you really going to play that game? Been there and done that way too long already. No more! And to be honest, I have more respect for people who have the will power, and courage to follow their dreams, rather than lead a dull, boring life tied down to real estate!

UPDATE 2:  5/1/15! If you'd like to see the floor plan and elevations for our cargo trailer, you can go to our other blog by clicking HERE, and then go about a third of the way down the page to find the download links which I have both revised and added to. The first is in an OpenOffice(dotorg) spreadhsheet program, using the drawing tools, but can be read by MS Office Excel, also. (Sorry, but Blogger won't let you insert download links in their program...yet!) I have also added three new drawings in pdf format for those that just want to view without changing or working with the spreadsheet version.

UPDATE AGAIN 1/7/14! If there are any doubts as to how fancy I could get with cabinetry or anything else, I just put a new site online that talks about some of the projects I did before retiring. You can see it at http://hardyhandyman.blogspot.com. The name just seemed to fit. Even though we live in the next city, I did a lot of work in Hardy, too.

OK, so why a conversion van to pull it, and not a fully outfitted Class B RV?

1.  The cost of a fully outfitted Class B is ridiculously high, for one thing, even in "highly used" ones. Anything below that is just plain junk. Conversion vans, especially the high-tops, have the best compromise of standing room and amenities, without all the expense of fancy cabinetry and mechanical systems.
2. The problem with most factory built RV's is that very few are ever laid out exactly as we would like them to be for our own uses. To find "exactly" what we want often takes a lot of searching, or else settling for something "close enough", whereas with a conversion van, you can start with the main items (high top, comfortable reclining seats, and a sofa bed) and add whatever you need without the expense or time of having to build it. No small motorhome was ever designed to live in 24 hours a day. Most of our day times will be spent outside or sightseeing because we will be traveling with the good weather. It doesn't need to be a mansion. It's a place to get us down the road in safety, reasonable economy and comfort, sleep, have a bathroom (porta-potty) handy in emergencies, and a place to get out of the rain when necessary. Nothing more.
3. Some may argue this point, but I like the flexibility of arranging things to suit my needs, based on how I'm using it at the time. The bed, for instance is only a bed if you need it to be, otherwise it is a very comfortable reclining couch. Usually, middle seats are removable, and even the couch can come out if you need to do some serious hauling. As a daytime "escape pod", a conversion van is much more practical. Adding cabinetry and mechanical systems only adds expense and more weight to the rig, and then costs more in fuel. A cooler, a portable sink, something to cook on, a table and chairs and a porta-potty can all be portable, which saves time and expense in other ways. If you need more room, there are all sorts of rear tents and side tents available, which again...you can keep when you trade vehicles.
4. When you get ready to trade vans, why spend time and money on systems which are only going to depreciate with the vehicle, and then have to let them go with the vehicle when you trade? Many of our camping items we have had for over thirty years, and many of them are like new today. We simply remove them from the vehicle we're trading (usually in 15 minutes or less) and put them right back into the next one...no installation necessary!
5. A conversion van doesn't have all the unsightly access doors and hookups around the outside, and most people don't even give them a second look as far as suspecting that anyone might be sleeping in them, unless they see a windshield curtain on the inside. However, a privacy curtain behind the front seats isn't nearly as noticeable, nor is it anything unusual. By making provisions for both, you can arrange your curtains according to how and where you are parking. 
6. They aren't subject to the complaints of "RV's" being parked in certain communities, because they are considered a "daily driver".
7. After considering how and "if" we could use the Dakota, the two main reasons we didn't is that it wouldn't have the space we need, and also the frame wasn't heavy enough to pull a travel trailer for the long term. Although it was powerful enough for the overall weight, the Class C hitch we had on it was already starting to lean down at the back because of too much tongue weight on it. By going to the larger van (which happens to be only a G-1500 half-ton) it is much more capable of handling the tongue weight, and also has the advantage of a slightly larger engine. Because it has a true truck frame, we can always beef up the rear suspension if we have to, and still be well within limits for the size trailer we are going to be using. And as stated earlier, for this size trailer (under 4000#), we won't need anti-sway or weight compensating bars, which again will save money.

OK, now for this blog itself...why a free Blogger site instead of a custom domain?

1. The best reason of all is that we are retired for all practical purposes, even from online marketing, so why pay the expense of something we don't need? In the 14 years we have been marketing online through our Azgrand.com site and many others, we have learned a lot of things about sites and blogs. A site of your own requires a platform of some kind from which to build it (i.e., a site building tool or software). Some of those require expense to buy it, use it, or maintain it through hosting fees or "user" fees. Even if you install a site/blog builder which is free (like Wordpress), they not only come with a lot of advertising restrictions, but they also come with a lot of additional plug-ins, which YOU must then update every time they change one of them. That can require nearly every-day maintenance in order to keep it operating properly. When using a free blog, like this one, Google takes care of all the updates. We have had some Blogger sites for years, and have yet to do any maintenance to widgets, gadgets, or plug-ins. It simply "works". So while we are out traveling and enjoying ourselves, we don't have to worry about it.
2. Some may wonder about restrictions on free sites, but I have read the rules on both Blogger and Wordpress, and whereas Wordpress won't let you use any other advertising than what they provide, Blogger has no such restrictions. We have been selling things from both affiliate advertising as well as drop-shipped physical items from our Blogger sites through our own PayPal buttons for years, and have never had an issue. The only rule that nearly every blog goes by is that it must be first and foremost a means of communication, with comments allowed. If you were to put a static sales page on it with nothing but sales hype, they would likely shut you down. But as long as you provide interesting and useful content, and allow for conversation to take place first and foremost, you should never have a problem. But Wordpress won't allow even that, so that is why we aren't going to use them for this purpose.
3. One thing that everyone should adhere to is simplicity. Although Wordpress (being an open-source platform) has endless versatility, the average blogger doesn't need all that, especially if they aren't selling anything or promoting anything. Nor are most people trained for that much technology, nor are they interested in learning. Some people just want to put their ideas and pictures down where others can see and read them. If they do any affiliate sales, that's a secondary bonus. They don't need to create some huge marketing campaign which is going to milk the public for every penny they can get out of it. They just want to write. Having used Wordpress and other site builders, I am fully aware that some of them are so complex that they take forever to learn, and have so many options that the user gets lost in the tool of the trade and loses site of why they are there in the first place. Very few people need that much versatility. There is a basic rule in sales work, and that is to not give customers too many options, because it actually hurts making the sale. People become indecisive. I liken that to people who decide to build their own RV, and spend months on cabinetry and systems, which all take away from why they are wanting something to camp in to begin with. Keep it simple and effective, and you will get out there sooner and enjoy it more by having it remain flexible. If I wanted cabinetry and systems, then I might as well stay home and enjoy them!

What you will find here going forward...

First of all, we already have our trailer...since 2004. It's a 2000 model year 6 x 12 Haulmark, originally built as a motorcycle trailer. We are starting to collect some of the material we will need to make it into a very comfortable "home". Yes, it will have minimal cabinetry and some systems (house battery, fresh water storage and pump, water heater, air conditioning, etc.) but for the most part, everything except the roof vents and skylight will be completely removable, so that if we trade trailers in the future, most of it can be pulled out and put right back in the new trailer. We will likely order a new one fully insulated and paneled with roof vents and skylight already installed, so that we only have to add our "portable" cabinetry, make a few updates in the electrical and plumbing systems, and be on the road again ASAP. We will be taking pictures of the progress as we do this "one-time" build (so we never have to do it again), and explaining why we are doing what we are doing.

2001 Dakota V8 Quad Cab and custom ordered Northstart TC-650.

We recently traded our V-8 Dakota Quad-cab and custom ordered North Star TC-650 truck camper, and bought a nice (although used) Chevy high-top conversion van with which to pull the cargo trailer. There will be some things we will be doing to it (new privacy blinds, windshield curtain, passenger seat swivel base, new 2-inch receiver hitch, etc.) that we will also photograph and document as it happens.

Hopefully, by next spring, we will be ready to head out with the van for some short, two-day trips, and we will also photograph those travels and document them. Postings may be random until such time as we can get out of here and full-time, but once that happens we hope to be posting with beautiful pictures nearly every day.

We still have many things to do here at home yet, the most of which is getting this place cleared out and pared down to only the things we will be taking with us or putting into temporary storage. We won't have to wait for the house to sell, but if it does (or soon after) that will be a bonus to our finances. Once the house is gone, we have projected that we should have roughly $1100 a month available over our normal expenses. Some of that will occasionally go toward camping fees, but we have enough experience to know that about half of our traveling (maybe more) will be boondocking, so the fees will be kept to a minimum...probably under $50 a month. The rest of the savings will be kept in reserve savings for future trades of vehicles, upgrades, etc., and if we can get to a point where we can do away with the temporary storage, that savings will also add to our reserves.

We have a membership in Western Horizon Resorts, with the upgrade to AOR and Sunbelt Resorts, also. In early June, we found out that our home resort at White Oaks on the Lake, at Monticello Indiana was closing, so Western Horizon moved our home resort to their home office resort of Blue Mesa Ranch, in Gunnison, Colorado.

We can stay at any of the Western Horizon Resorts for up to two weeks at a time, totally free of charge. If we use an AOR or Sunbelt Resort it will cost us $9 per night, and using Coast to Coast will cost us $10. And with being over 62, we also get 1/2 price at most state and federal parks, forests, Corps of Engineers parks, and much more. Most of the latter are under $20 at full price, so our price will usually be under $10 per night.

And then we are also charter members of BoondockersWelcome.com (which currently costs $20 per year and has well over 800 private residence members who trade free stays with each other, but you don't have to own property to be a member). There is also HarvestHosts.com (currently $40 a year for free nights at mostly farms and vineyards and a few other things). And of course there are millions of acres of BLM (Bureau of Land Management) lands and other free camping spots available, mostly in the west, but there are plenty of other free camping spots all over the country too, if you know how to find them. (We do).

So as you can see, we are very knowledgable of the options available, as well as the costs. With staying up to two weeks at a time at our resorts and other free places the majority of the time, our fuel costs won't be much more than we have right now. Most of our resorts are within 200 miles of each other, and many are much closer than that. Our major fuel cost will be in whatever sightseeing we do, and we have full control over all of that. Other than mail forwarding ($189 a year for full service) all of our other expenses are fixed expenses that we would have no matter where we would be. And those include decreasing term life to age 90, and Plan G Medicare supplement that pays all but $140 per person per year, no matter what or where.

So don't worry. We aren't choosing to live an a cargo trailer because we are destitute! We're doing just fine. But we have nobody that wants anything that we have, so we are making the best use of it for ourselves while we can, so we don't leave anything for people to fight over when we're gone! 

Those who have a curiosity to know how we are progressing, what we are doing or what's happening along the way are encouraged to follow along with this blog. Use the subscription form in the top right margin to receive notifications of new posts. Don't worry...that's all it's used for. I don't even see the subscriber list without digging deep into the Feedburner system, and to be honest...it's not worth my time. Let us know if you have any questions.

So until next time...stay well and travel safe.